Valletta, the capital of Malta, may be a tiny city in the smallest country in the European Union, but it’s making big waves in the LGBTQ community. In fact, Valletta will be hosting EuroPride this September, an annual event that celebrates and promotes LGBTQ rights and culture.
I must admit, when I first arrived at the Palmy Art Deco Phoenicia Hotel and spoke to a former British naval officer who praised Prince Philip for his good looks (seriously?), I was intrigued. According to him, Malta has always been a haven for gay men because of its history as a base for sailors and soldiers.
But what caught my attention even more was when he told me that being gay is not only accepted but embraced on this lovely little island. It seems like everyone here couldn’t care less about someone’s sexual orientation. And honestly, after hearing that story about Rosa Mifsud petitioning to be recognized as male back in 1744 (and actually succeeding), I wasn’t surprised anymore.
So here I am, exploring what makes Malta so tolerant and accepting of all people—gay or straight. Liam Gauci, curator of the Malta Maritime Museum and self-proclaimed expert on everything Maltese history-related (or so he claims), suggested that it might have something to do with their unique identity as an amalgamation of different cultures.
According to Mr. Gauci: “We’re Roman Catholic but our word for God is Allah because we were ruled by Arabs for centuries. These contradictions make us wryly tolerant.” Well then…I guess it all makes sense now?
As soon as I stepped into Valletta—the apricot-colored sun slowly setting into the Mediterranean—I knew this place was special. The steep streets lined with honey-colored stone houses resembled something out of old Cairo or Tunis—a bit exotic and mysterious.
My home away from home during this adventure was Casa Rocca Piccola B & B, a gorgeous 16th-century mansion turned hotel (and also open to visitors). I dropped off my bags and headed straight to Noni, a Michelin-starred restaurant recommended by my new friend Ritienne Brincat. The food was an unexpected surprise—Maltese cuisine is far from what you’d find in Sicily or any other nearby Mediterranean destination. It’s a fusion of flavors influenced by all the different cultures that have passed through this island.
But let me tell you about Mdina—the old capital of Malta—a charming little town built by Arabs on top of a Roman city (because why not?). Visiting Mdina at night, after the crowds have left, feels simply magical. Its thick stone walls and elegant Baroque architecture transport you back in time.
Back in Valletta itself, there are two must-see attractions: St. John’s Co-Cathedral and the National Museum of Archaeology. These places showcase Malta’s rich history and its vibrant baroque art scene. And if you’re looking for some peace and tranquility after all that sightseeing, head to the Upper Barakka Gardens—it offers beautiful views of Grand Harbor along with some much-needed greenery.
Now onto the nightlife! If Hvar or Mykonos come to mind when thinking about pumping clubs with diverse crowds sipping colorful cocktails under neon lights…well, Paceville might just be another name to add to your list. This party district is just a short ferry ride away from Valletta and has something for everyone—gay or straight—as long as it’s past midnight.
But who needs loud music and crowded terraces when you can enjoy good conversation at Phoenicia Hotel’s Club Bar? That’s where I found myself sitting next to my naval officer friend again—not because he was handsome but because he knew how entertaining conversations can be over drinks.
In conclusion, Malta truly lives up to its reputation as a tolerant and open-minded place. It’s a destination that welcomes everyone with open arms, regardless of who they love or what their background may be. So if you’re looking for an LGBTQ-friendly getaway, look no further than Valletta, the tiny capital with a big heart.
And don’t forget to mark your calendar for EuroPride in September—it’s going to be fabulous!
